This clunky old Hortex Boombox has been a roadblock for all my other projects. It was held together with square-drive woodscrews and one cassette door gaped open. I'm guessing it was the workshop radio in a diesel shop due to the film of crud all over its insides. The main board was a basket case, one tweeter holed-through, one woofer with zero ohms (not discovered until late in the day after acquiring a replacement board from Armenia), one aerial missing and the other one busted, belts all gone - the usual stuff. Not one to let a few minor problems stop me, I kept working on it. Just thought I'd share my reconstruction of the busted cassette door. These boxes have quite powerful springs on the doors so just using glue on the broken strut (on the spring side, of course) would never work. Hence the metal splint. Tools were a Dremel for cutting and grinding, and a big old drill press for the holes. It looks rough and while it's mainly invisible when fitted, I will paint it black.
I've got a few similar situations and I've been racking my brain on how to fix them, maybe sistering a metal plate on the side isn't such a bad idea. I'd probably try epoxy first to see if it holds but I can see situations where you need more strength. If you have a drill press and want to clean up the edges of the metal there's sandpaper rolls that come in different diameters that you can chuck up, some are pretty effective but they are stationary and tend to wear at the point of contact quicker than other methods, the rolls of sandpaper are pretty cheap and are similar to the smaller Dremel Version.
Let me think about this, Lasonic trc-918 I posted in here a while back about needing a picture of the circuit board where the wires for the spakers are solder on at!, 2. Pioneer SK-31 3. Silver sr-8000 and the sr-8800 with a frozen motor, Sanyo m7900, and some Hitachi TRK-8000 - I think, and various JVC's m50 m70 m70 m71 m90 838 m80 and other model's and then there are more Panasonic's and YES FINALLY I got a battery cover for my crown CSC-850F of which I got from the uk from hisrudeness in ebay but not through a listing of his as we went through ebay but not through a listing as he showed me how to do that and YES I paid a Very RUDE price for that battery cover! Question what would you pay for any battery cover ? and then what would pay for this somewhat rare crown 850F battery cover?
Thanks Mister X. I have seen this done with rigid wire and epoxy, I just couldn't see it working in the Hortex. My approach was to make the metal splint as big as possible to start with and pare it down as I worked out the actual fit, on the "you-can-cut-it-shorter-but-you-can't-cut-it-longer" principle. The real drawback here is that the pare-down with power-driven grinding bits got the metal hot enough to soften the plastic. That felt like a bad idea so I'm eschewing powered abrasion and it's hand-filing from now. Cheers Nick
I didn't think about it heating up the plastic,most of that starts getting flexible around 130 degrees F. It's better to trace it out, sand it down than attach. Cassette2go, I wish I could find that thread from the very early days of the forum, one of the members would take the tabs from an existing door and glue them onto sheet plastic, I think pebbled black ABS. He was pretty effective at making a cosmetically nice, kind of usable door. I did buy a sheet of 1/8" black pebbled ABS to experiment with but I haven't had time to play with it yet.
