Interior Damage To A Dual-Deck LASONiC

Discussion in 'Tech talk' started by Easthelp, Dec 10, 2019.

  1. Easthelp

    Easthelp Active Member

    Messages:
    144
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    Florida, USA
    Hello, people. Uh, does anyone have any experience in refastening (or outright rebuilding) the interior assembly of components of a dual-cassette-deck LASONiC after it probably suffered in transit from Asia to North America? (Some literally “knock on” evidence indicates that the components insides have been completely jarred loosed from their connections, from their plastic moorings that they were screwed into, etc.) The reconstruction of broken plastic moorings (posts), perhaps with “3D printing,” might be necessary.


    Have a good day, okay? (Better than a certain LASONiC I know SMH …)
     
  2. Longman

    Longman Well-Known Member S2G Supporter

    Messages:
    3,855
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Bournemouth UK
    If the damage is internal it is often a similar to a 3D jigsaw puzzle with epoxy, maybe adding reinforcing parts like pins where necessary.
    Back in the 90s, when they were worth something I succesfully repaired the sled and clamp mechanism of a CD ROM drive like that.
    Has anyone tried the UV curing glue which I keep seeing adverts for on Youtube. The advert makes it look amazing but then it would. Of course the slow setting time of epoxy can be an advantage.
     
  3. Reli

    Reli Well-Known Member S2G Supporter

    Messages:
    1,021
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    USA
  4. Easthelp

    Easthelp Active Member

    Messages:
    144
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    Florida, USA
    Thanks for the replies, both verbal and pictorial, Longman and Reli. These adhesives (whether they’re called “cement” or epoxies) should be the sort of thing that my repairer would use to fasten plastics and plastic like materials, perhaps before he starts on the electronics themselves: the soldering, the re-screwing and the like. Uh, Reli, was that SciGrip solvent cement by Weld-On bought in 2014 or in 2019? I suppose that, at about nineteen American dollars per pint, it’s a good investment? And, Longman, do you still use the computer with the CD-ROM’s sled and clamp mechanism that you repaired?


    (And that’s a Sanyo M-9998K that the SciGrip tin is posed in front of, right? A quick Google check confirms my guess that it’s that highly desired “end of the Seventies” stereo.:nodding:)
     
  5. Longman

    Longman Well-Known Member S2G Supporter

    Messages:
    3,855
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Bournemouth UK
    That was years ago in my Pentium 133MHz machine. I can't remember what happened to the PC (most likely sold off for a few tens of £) although I will have an image of its data on this one. When I upgraded to a Celeron 500MHz in 1999 I got a CD Writer (the first one I saw for under £100). I recall that was something like 2x-2x-16x speed, i.e it would take 30 minutes to burn a single CD !
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2019
  6. Mister X

    Mister X Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    16,446
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Easthelp, if the plastic is Styrene or ABS it may be solvent welded. After applying the stuff above, the plastic becomes semi-liquid on the surface and when it comes in contact with another piece of the same type of plastic, it will weld itself together. There is a set up time where you will have to hold or make a jig to keep the parts in place. You can also get the plastic in sheets, cut some sections and use it for reinforcement or gussets.

    The price on that can seems extremely high, I'd go to Home Depot or other home store to get it for a few dollars. They use it for putting together ABS pipe systems, very similar to PVC pipe but just enough difference where PVC cement doesn't work as well. The plastic sheets you can get at a modeling store or order on-line. If the sheet is thin enough I think you can score them with an X-Acto and snap apart like glass but I'm not 100% sure, I just use a woodworkers chop-saw carefully.
     
  7. nickelindimer

    nickelindimer Active Member

    Messages:
    415
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Location:
    Chicagoland
    Total "feels" for you here, Bro... as I know how it is to receive stereo stuff in the mail all washed-up! And what it's like to find your box the same, after lending it to some boy scouts for the evening.
     
  8. DutchNick

    DutchNick Active Member

    Messages:
    103
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    United Kingdom
    Last year I rebuilt a big old Hortex PC9090 boombox. The box itself was a disappointment, all chrome and graphics with minimal functionality but that's beside the point.
    The structure itself didn't seem strong enough for its own weight so I sold it as a working display piece rather than something you'd haul down to the street and boogie with. As if...!
    Much of the plastic was becoming brittle so anchor points for screws were starting to fail and would disintegrate under excess pressure.
    Edges that had started life straight would no longer match up and in fact along the huge top seam I had to add some reinforcing and extra closures to make it hang together.
    While the build and material quality of this grade of gear may be questionable anyway, maybe ageing plastics will become a bigger problem as our precious gear gets older?

    Hortex PC9090 01.JPG
     
  9. nickelindimer

    nickelindimer Active Member

    Messages:
    415
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Location:
    Chicagoland
    Geez, it looks cheap! I wonder what urban low-price/"E-Z Credit" electronics store it came from?
    But yeah, I hear you about the plastics... being I've a cheap r/c monster truck my dad bought as a "surprise" Christmas gift in the mid-80s. (I really wanted a gas-powered car I saw) It was a kit-type made in China, and the plastics of it alone got it bad reviews, so I wonder how it'll hold-up if I take it out like I did when it was new, once again. Most people never heard of it, and few stores stocked replacement parts for it... even back when! So if I break something irreplaceable on it, that's it! and I've ruined what could essentially be a museum piece.
     

Share This Page