Hi Folks, Although the search for my holy grail PX-303 continues, I've bagged some PX-505 units that I know need repair. The trick is, what components usually go, and where do I source the components (caps, etc.) that are small enough to fit in the decks? The postage costs from most UK quality component sellers are ludicrous, so if I can put together a shopping list, then I can build up a small supply without costing too much in wasted postage. One 505 doesn't respond to the play button. I'm hoping that's going to be a simple failure to fix, but I'm expecting that I'm going to have to replace caps in there anyway, just to be on the safe side while I've got it apart. The other is quiet on one channel, and that could be a number of different things. I'm just going to have to sort this out when I get it open. With various factors, I'm not going to move on anything until January, what with the postage rush at this time of year. I do have a 3,000 hz tape and a few other bits and pieces coming, and I've also got a new solder station and solder training kits for SMD boards, so that I get myself trained first, and don't just butcher these things. I just need to know where I can source quality replacement components please, and a rough guide as to what I should be stocking up on.
Hello Michelle and welcome aboard ! There are a few interesting threads related to capacitors and repairs in general here in s2g ,a very good one about capacitors is here but there are more (e.g. you can type capacitor in the search box above). Good luck with your repairs ,definitely worth to try and when you succeed the feeling is very rewarding.
We had a member in the old forum who had a lot of knowledge about AIWA walkman Capacitors I am sure most of the members remember "PLOP" Anyway, his topic is still available online: http://www.stereo2go.com/topic/aiwa-capacitor-replacement-guide.htm
Thanks for this info. I've got it all safe and will set to work. Thanks to a kind person, there is a chance that I might actually end up with a 303 in the end.... but I'm going to have to work for it. Much practice with the soldering iron, sourcing of parts, practice and patience... and who knows. This is going to take time!
OK ... so Digikey is asking... The discussion has turned to calipers. Urk. And I thought that ordering some capacitors off a list was going to be easy !!!
Has anyone in the UK used RS recently for a home order ? We use them and Farnell regularly at work but everything goes through the purchasing department. They are offering free delivery on online orders. How that works for them with a 20p capacitor I don't know. I guess most people place bigger orders. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/generalDisplay.html?id=services/delivery-methods
So... given that the boards are so thin... how do people remove the caps? I've watched videos on everything from breaking the cap, to heat and also things that reduce the melting point of the solder. I'd like to know other people's techniques when taking old caps off the boards, before I wreck something !!!
For Aiwas with leaking SMD caps I usually hold the base of the cap with very thin pliers (I use straight mosquito forceps) and then twist the aluminum cap off, then break the plastic cap base in half, and desolder/clean off the remaining legs. This is because the solder is corroded and difficult to melt with the iron with the cap on. You can also dual wield two irons or if you're working with a very well made board with traces unlikely to rip (think big decks), you can heat up both sides alternately until the cap falls off. The best method is with a dual tip soldering iron, which is very expensive. For through hole caps just use desoldering wick.
@bub Excellent pointers! It seems that my hobbies follow my work: I am juggling a bunch of real nasty chemicals when in the lab, and coming home I either sniff acetone glue/lacquer paints working on yet another plastic model jet or get high from acid/heavy metals while desoldering all those leaking caps! And The Boss worries about me smoking sometimes, Ha!!!
@Michelle Knight DigiKey lists both height and dia of the caps they sell, once u select 100uF and voltage (the same or higher than whats needed) just hit Height button to see the smallest ones. Then choose the best which fits: Nichicon Fine Gold, Elna Silmic II... Sorry, this works for some Discmans, for Aiwa Walkmans there wont be too many choices because of the size, you might even have to use SMD caps and reconfigure them for "thru hole" use: see my post on Aiwa resurrection
Well, I've sort of got a quote from DigiKey, but the 100uF caps have come in at a minimum order quantity of 2,000. That's more than $900 worth. Urk. I've gone back to them and asked if anything can be done about this, and I am yet to hear.
At work we use the following distributors in this order of preference Farnell RS Mouser Digikey It is worth having look at all four as they are rival companies all competing to have the best range / stock etc.
Very strange... Can you post the specs of the original 100uF capacitor? And the one DigiKey want to sell you in thousands.
Sure. At the top of the list of replacement part numbers here - http://www.stereo2go.com/topic/aiwa-capacitor-replacement-guide.htm ... ...which is this one - https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=399-5144-1-ND - and the minimum order quantity is 2,000. I asked DigiKey about this and they said... I asked if the issue could be referred to technical, which they kindly did... and this was the response. I've asked if they can review this part, and I've yet to hear back. In the mean time, I've contacted Farnell and RS Components.
What about this one: 100uF/6.3V (5x5mm) or this (4x6mm)? What is the size of the original 100uF/2V cap?
I don't actually know the dimensions. I'm basically lining up all the spare parts that are listed as needed, so that when I open one of these up, I can get it done and put back together in one weekend.
Plop's old cap list suggests Tantalums, or Polymers. Do not buy those UNLESS modern electrolytics do not fit! They usually do. They will affect the sound, electrolytics (same as the originals) are preferred. Read my 2017 Capacitor thread for a list of more suitable caps. http://www.stereo2go.com/forums/threads/list-of-common-walkman-capacitors-2017.1246/ Both of Jorge's suggestions are good, but you can also try these: 100uf: SMD: EMVE160ADA101MF55G (5.2mm height, 6.3mm diameter) UWR0J101MCL1GB (5.5mm height, 5mm diameter) Through Hole: UMW0G101MDD (Audio Grade Series, 5mm height, 5mm diameter) 470uf: Through Hole: UMW0G471MDD (Audio Grade Series, 5mm height, 8mm diameter, smallest I can find, Check your originals or substitute with tantalums) Shop for Height first, then Diameter. Higher voltage rating is ok, but you want caps that are guaranteed to fit! Do Not Buy any Caps until you've opened your unit and measured the height/counted the original caps! Service Manuals might be wrong or have differences, and your unit might be a different board revision. PX303 in particular uses 470uf caps, very rare in Walkmans. You must measure the original caps before buying! If you are not sure, take a picture of the board with the original caps on it with a ruler next to it and post it here.
Ah. Oops. I was hoping to get all the components together to repair at one time, so I wouldn't have to open a unit multiple times... or also have an open unit hanging around for weeks while I waited for parts. - I guess that plan is now shot to heck I wasn't aware of the updated list. So it looks like I might have sent DigiKey, Farnell and RS off on a wild goose chase. Oh man... those guys are going to love me. My small workspace is currently cluttered up and won't be cleared for a few weeks... and I'm going to need some plastic containers... and... yeah... give me a while to re-jig my plans and I'll start on one of the P505 units mid-Jan.
No need to contact the retailers! Just add caps to your cart, when you search with the part numbers, choose Cut Reel or any other non bulk option in the search results. Good to label the screws and parts by sticking them to piece of paper and taking lots of photos. I usually put the screws halfway back into the correct holes if I'm leaving a unit to sit for a while. Just gone done upgrading a K890ES to K970ES spec and there was a mistake in the Service Manual I did not spot. I had to make another order and spend on another round of shipping.
