What is the problem with your motor ? Can't it be restored ? There is a thread about these coreless motors:...
The 2 heads in the links look almost identical to each other and by the looks of it almost identical to the one in your boombox. So chances are...
DC-DC converter only powers the Dolby circuits, so even if that's fried (which I doubt) it wouldn't explain the symptoms. Most likely it's...
Would start with polishing that head, it's really rusty. Fact you get stronger singal on chrome/metal bias suggests either the bias is too low...
If the W&F doesn't change it's good. Fact speed changes is likely from the extra drag, but would ignore it for the time being. As far as test...
Wouldn't jump on replacing the rollers peemptively, as not all new rollers are same quality as the original ones. Clean them well though. Ideally...
Fact once you press FF/REW, the other commands no longer work suggest the logic control side does register that command. Buttons being both...
The head does appear to have some wear (there is a visible groove) and also some surface rust/corrosion. The surface rust/corrosion could affect...
Assuming the Kenwood KX7030 deck has the tape path alignment right, your WM-EX512 likely has a tape path alignment problem. However the KX7030...
So you have 2 different problems: lack of torque on FF and PLAY and also high W&F when takeup is full ? Not sure what you meant by flywheel is...
If by FW you're reffering to Fast Forward, I would clean the lever mentioned here:...
Try to power it on without the belt. If motor doesn't rotate, remove the battery contacts and clean them with wire brush. Regarding mechanism,...
Don't have a picture with it handy. Just remove that PCB and you'll see it.
The motor starts running with PLAY button pressed or not ? First thing I would check is the leaf switch under the small hotline PCB.
Those 2 parts in the pictures are related to the mechanical auto-stop. Fact those were harder to turn makes even more a point in fact mechanism...
It almost always matters the way pin comes out, as it's press fitted only in one of the holes (typically the bottom one) not both. In units...
Can't remember the exact number, but think there are more than 4 that need to be replaced. Point is only the SMD ones need to be replaced, rest...
The clock exact frequency isn't critical, seen units that were outside the specified interval and still worked fine. It has to be off by a lot to...
If you haven't replaced the rubber in it, that's the thing you should do. Fact you have low torque on FF/REW and on takeup is a tell-tale sign...
If you want to be sure, check the continuity of the transformer coils with a multimeter. It can go open-circuit, although not common. Apart from...
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